Κατεύθυνση Γεωλογική ΩκεανογραφίαLibrary of the School of Science
Σεραφείμ Πούλος, Καθηγητής, Τμήμα Γεωλογίας και Γεωπεριβάλλοντος, ΕΚΠΑ
Παρασκευή Νομικού , Αναπληρώτρια Καθηγήτρια, ΕΚΠΑ
Εμμανουήλ Βασιλάκης , Αναπληρωτής Καθηγητής, ΕΚΠΑ
Μορφολογική εξέλιξη του Κεντρικού Κυπαρισσιακού Κόλπου
Morphological evolution of the Central Kyparissiakos Gulf
The Kyparissiakos Gulf is located in the Western Peloponnese (Greece), facing the Ionian Sea. Its total length is about 75km and stretches from cape Katakolo in the north to cape Kounelo in the south. Its coastal zone is associated with an extensive field of sand dunes and is generally characterized as sandy. The beach zone of Kyparissiakos Gulf is characterized by a large variety of rhythmic shoreline featυres, ranging from underwater bars and beach cusps along with changes in the position of the shoreline. The scope of the present thesis is to study the morphological evolution of the Central Kyparissiakos Gulf.
Fieldwork includes profile surveying of the subaerial and subaqeous part of the coastal zone along shore-normal transects with the use of RTK – GPS equipment and the HODEX echsounder. The morphodynamic characteristics of the area were studied and samples were collected, on which granulometric analysis was performed. The analysis showed that the study area is characterized as sandy.
The wave regime of the area was examined. In the Central Kyparissiakos Gulf the highest waves that are caused by SW winds have a height of 6m and a period of 12sec, those caused by W winds have a height of 6.0m and a period of 12sec and those caused by NW winds have a height of 2.31m and a period of 6.37sec. The average waves caused by SW winds have a height of 0.12m and a period of 1.82sec, those caused by W winds have a height of 0.27m and a period of 2.75sec and those caused by NW winds have a height of 0.98m and a period of 4.81sec. The annual sediment supply is +177,789m3/year in Position 1 – South and +165,181m3/year in Position 2 – North. In both study areas, the direction of the sediment transport is from the NW to the SE.
The changes of the shoreline were studied with the use of aerophotographs of the years 1996, 2010, 2013, 2017, 2018 and 2019 and the application of the tool DSAS v.5.0 (Digital Shoreline Analysis System). The analysis showed that that in the southern and northern parts of the area the retreat of the shoreline is dominant, while in the central part there are alternations. However, a safe conclusion whether or not the Central Kyparissiakos Gulf is under erosion cannot be concluded safe.
In addition, the retreat of the shoreline of the Central Kyparissiakos Gulf until the year 2100 was estimated using the models provided by Bruun (1962), Dean (1991), Edelman (1972) and Kriebel & Dean (1993). The shoreline retreat for the conservative RCP4.5 (sea level rise α=0.38m) and the unfavourable RCP8.5 (sea level rise α=0.82m) found to be in the order of 21 and 40 m, respectively.
Main subject category:
Oceanography, Central Kyparissiakos Gulf, shoreline changes
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